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Kutna Hora

The plan for this morning was to be up in time to have breakfast and checkout at 7 (when breakfast at the hotel begins) and then get to the train station in time to catch the first train that would get us to Kutna Hora around opening time.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">We were at breakfast on-time, and it was a decent breakfast. It took us a while to get moving though, and we mad it to the train station, bought our tickets, and then saw we were about a minute too late for the train.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">Since the next train was an hour later, we wandered the station for a little and used the free wifi. Finally, it was train time. <br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">The train car was roomy and comfortable. It reminds me of the train car they sit in on the ride to Hogwarts, but with clear doors so that you can see the scenery from both sides of the train.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">Near Prague, the scenery was mostly forested, which in winter means a bunch of leafless trees. As we got further out, the scenery changed to fields and villages more than trees.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">We changed trains at Kolin, and continued to Kutna Hora main station. The lady at the ticket desk in Prague had told us to go to Kutna Hora Mesto (and sold us tickets to there), so we changed to this tiny little train that looked more like a bus. It only has 3 stops- the main station, the center station, and the downtown station (mesto). <br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">When we got off, there weren't really signs telling us where to go, and the map the lady at the train station gave us didn't have the Bone Church clearly identified. When I asked about it, she said, what sounded to me like "Barbarosa." I had a map saved to my phone, but it didn't seem to jive with anything on the map she gave me, so we assumed google was wrong and found some locals. Of course, they didn't speak English, so we cleverly showed them a picture we had on an ad for Kutna Hora tours from Prague. "Ah, Barbarosa," they all said, and pointed us on our way.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">We passed through a very cute, quaint town. It was worth the uphill walk just to see the town. Every time we stopped and showed a local the picture, they were very helpful, constantly pointing us to Barbarosa, until we got close enough that there were signs to St. Barbara's.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;"><br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">The church itself has a great view, a lovely walkway, and is very beautiful. The architecture is stunning. Finally, at the church, I went inside and asked, is this the bone church?<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">No.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">It wasn't.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">The bone church is so far across town that it is not on the map the train lady gave me. It is located between the first 2 train stations in town, and the map I saved to my phone showed how to get there from the middle train station, not the one we were told to go to. So basically, we walked uphill 20 minutes to the wrong site. However, it was beautiful and totally worth seeing. I was glad that we accidentally stumbled onto a UNESCO world heritage sight that we didn't plan on seeing. <br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">the tourist office lady gave me a new map showing all of the tourist sites in town, as well as where the bus stops to get us there are. We didn't know how much time it would take the bus (the map said 30 mins), and we thought we'd be short on time, so we didn't really stay at St. Barbara's enough to really look around too much.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">On the way to the bus stop, we passed another of the town's famous historical sites. Just as we started waiting for the bus, it started to snow. Really, it was barely flurrying, but since it's been years since I've seen snow fall, I'll take what I can get. <br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">We got on the bus, and it was way less than 30 minutes to the bone church, maybe because there was only one other person who got on or off the bus the entire time we were on it. I enjoyed seeing the non-touristy parts of town and how "real" Czech people lived in the countryside. Some were of the areas were clearly built in the Soviet era, but had been painted in bright colors to make them fun and unusual- the standard Czech "anti-soviet" rebellion. The driver was really nice and told us just where to get off and pointed us in the right direction, even though he didn't speak any English.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;"><br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">The Ossuary itself was very cool. They had a paper they handed out in various languages that explains the place. The summary: a lot of people were buried here in old (1200s era) time and some conquerors came and tore it up. A half-blind monk took the bones of 40,000 people and used them to decorate the church, all while following the "religious people rules of bone decoration." He got his sight back when he was done.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">The Ossuary is very cool to see, the highlight being a chandelier of bones. It is only one room, so it doesn't take long. (Technically, there is a chapel upstairs and a pretty cemetery outside, but those aren't the good parts.) To come to Kutna Hora just for the Ossuary is probably not worth it. I'm really glad we also saw the town, church, and cathedral. To make a day trip to see them all IS worth it. Or, in our case, a half-day trip.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;"><br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">After the church, we walked to the main train station and enjoyed the snow some more. We got a direct train back to Prague and rearranged our plans.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">My travel partner wanted to go shopping again. I did more shopping yesterday than I can really handle, I feel that I fulfilled my promise to go shopping, I feel that spending my time in a mall is a big waste, and I had seen an ad for a 1 hour underground tour that looked interesting, so we decided to split up for a few hours.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;"><br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">Unfortunately, today was apparently "show up a minute too late day." I was technically on time for the tour, but since they had already left, that didn't really help me any.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">Instead, I asked the tourist info lady what museum she would recommend if I only had an hour. She circled a spot on Bethlehem street and told me that they have a great exhibit on native cultures.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;"><br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">I got to Bethlehem street easily enough, and went into the first museum that I saw. It turned out to be a free modern art museum. It was interesting, but there wasn't a whole lot to see there. It also wasn't the museum I was looking for.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">So, when I exited, I looked around for the goal museum. I found an architecture museum right across the street, so I went in there, thinking that maybe it had something. It was a one-room display on dilapidated buildings that had been restored/modernized. It was just a bunch of posters with pictures that somebody hung up. I think it would make an interesting book if somebody printed the pages a bit smaller, but there really wasn't a need to print them large and call it a museum. I did find it interesting, though, just not enough to want to stand around reading everything.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;"><br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">Again, when I exited I looked around for the goal museum. Finally, I realized the fancy gate-looking thing was the entrance to the entrance of the museum.<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8000001907349px; line-height: normal;">This really was the museum she suggested, N&aacute;prstek Museum. It is part of the Czech national museum system, so there are several buildings. However, I only went to the one. The displays had nothing to do with anything Czech, but were interesting nonetheless. The 2 big topics they covered were Azerbaijan and Pacific Island native culture. The first was in English, the second wasn't, but had a lot more items and a lot less to read anyway. I enjoyed it more than the mall.

I did eventually go back to the mall to meet up with my friend. She showed me another cheese stand and I tried a bunch of the cheeses, and again picked a few to bring back. There were some cheeses I'd had before, but also quite a few new ones, including a really sweet, creamy gorgonzola dulce.

At this point, most of the tourist things were shutting down and there wasn't too much to do other than dinner and then go to the airport. W were pretty tired, but wandered around old town trying to find just the right place before stopping at an Italian restaurant, Pizzeria de Sherry. I had homemade tagliatelli that was great and FINALLY tried a Pilsner Urquel, the Czech beer. It tasted like a light beer. It was still not to my taste and I didn't drink a lot, but it was light enough that I could at least get some down.

After dinner, we headed back to the airport, exhausted, but happy that we had been able to go on a short getaway.

Czech countryside

Czech countryside


Kutna Hora town

Kutna Hora town


Kutna Hora town

Kutna Hora town


Statue on way to St. Barbara's

Statue on way to St. Barbara's


St. Barbara's

St. Barbara's


Monastery

Monastery


Soviet style architecture

Soviet style architecture


Bone Church

Bone Church


Bone Church

Bone Church

Posted by spsadventures 16:00 Archived in Czech Republic

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